Tuesday, July 1, 2008

Brussels: My European Home



Now that I'm back in the states, I have an incredible appreciation for the time I spent in Europe. I visited so many places and met so many people while I was there. Although I didn't realize it, Brussels was really growing on me more and more each day. I suppose when you live in a place for a while, that place becomes increasingly comfortable for you, but comfort is something that we really take for granted until we lose it. This phenomena is similar to moving away from home for the first time, like going off to college. In this entry, I'd like to take some time to describe Brussels, and why leaving Brussels and coming back to the states was strikingly similar to leaving home.

The first thing that makes any place special are the people. Of course, Americans are my own people and I love the people in America and the culture that we have. But I did really enjoy meeting all the different people we encountered while in Brussels. All of the folks from the CUBC did everything they could to relate to us and make us feel right at home. Even the staff at our hotel, The Citadines, were really great to us for the most part. (I qualify this, because there was one staff member in particular who adamantly refused to give us more toilet paper, causing some tension between the American students and hotel staff. ) Our European Integration teacher, Lidia, was not exactly Belgian (I believe she was Ukrainian), but was such a nice person and made every effort to help us really grasp what she was trying to say. Marie Therese was our teacher for the class on Belgian Culture. What an awesome woman. I don't even know how many languages she spoke. But she was wonderful in the classroom and a wonderful guide through some of the cities we visited. Any time there would be a language or cultural barrier to overcome, it seemed like Marie Therese (or MTC as we affectionately called her) was always there to save the day. The sheer knowledge that she had about the world was absolutely phenomenal. Not only did she know a great deal about Belgian culture, history, and politics, but she also knew the customs and culture of countries all over the world. I'd have to say MTC is probably one of the smartest people I've ever met. It is a shame there are not more people as knowledgeable and as well traveled as she in the US. And of course, the trip wouldn't have been nearly as great if not for the group we had. I'm so glad to have met each of the people I traveled with and hope that we continue to hang out while in Clemson.


Another thing that truly separates Belgium from the US is Belgium's deep rooted history. Unfortunately, no matter how hard we try, we will never have the centuries of history that they do. However, with some luck and some policy changes, maybe we can at least match the appreciation and love that the Belgians have for their history. While Americans consider the US the one true melting pot of cultures, sometimes we fail to realize that Europe has been mixing and blending since the Roman empire (even before). There is so much overlap in language and culture that it forces people to be more sensitive and accepting of the different ideas and customs held by different cultures. Belgium itself has had a lot of this culture blending and continues to do so. Brussels, for instance, adopts both the Flemmish and Walloons cultures. The number of museums in Belgium are really a testament to the appreciation they have for history. (And for such a small country, they have a LOT of museums.) I didn't even go to all of the museums in Brussels (not even close I might add...) but I did go to one about music that was awesome. The inventor of the Saxophone, Adolphe Sax, was a Belgian, and the Belgian Musical Instruments museum had thousands of instruments with audio recordings so you could hear what they sounded like and what the music the people made sounded like. I found that hearing the music of a people is a great way to experience their culture. (Note: What would people think if they visited America and made the same observation? Answer- Americans are crass, vulgar, and sometimes like to prove that they know how to spell... B-A-N-A-N-A-S). One of the picture's I'm putting on here was not actually from Brussels, rather it was from Dinant, but it was a sculpture that I think really captures a lot about Belgians. It conveys rhythm, some feeling, an appreciation for history (a tribute to Adolphe Sax), passion, and maybe a little bit of sexuality/ romance. Most importantly, the sculpture isn't a piece where what you see is what you get. The way each limb and instrument is configured makes you really pay attention to how your eyes move around the art work. Very interesting.

Churches are another major part of Belgian history that we will not be able to replicate in the US. Belgium has a rich Catholic history, which is obvious when you examine the countless churches that are scattered throughout each city. I actually attended a French mass while I was there, which was an awesome experience. Mass in a huge 15th century cathedral is far different from a 20th century church in the states. You're almost awe-struck by the beauty of the space. It is actually somewhat intimidating if you're not used to it. I guess those cathedrals lend new meaning to the term "God fearing." The churches are not the only bit of architectural splendor we witnessed in Europe. Since almost all of the buildings in Brussels are very old, and the streets are often strangely configured, we saw a lot of older architectural techniques that just seemed to fit the spaces they occupied perfectly.

When we arrived in Belgium, I was very curious about the prospec
t of having the majority of restaurant seating outside. The outdoor cafes were not unheard of, but were certainly a foreign custom. I can definitely say it is something uniquely European that I'm missing back in the states. Granted, the weather in Europe was a little more conducive to outdoor dining as it lacked the extreme heat and humidity of South Carolina. But these restaurants were very laid back and created an atmosphere for conversation and people watching. Because most restaurants in the US have only indoor dining and usually play music, the atmosphere does not foster conversations quite as well. Having unique cafes as opposed to chain restaurants was also a major plus in Belgium. And of course, the bars were all very interesting and uniquely Belgian.

Finally, the major landmarks of Brussels. Manneken Pis is probably one of the biggest (and most over rated) tourist attractions Brussels has to offer. While the history of the fountain is pretty cool, and it is neat that they dress up the statue sometimes, Manneken Pis (Literally translated to "Little Man"... you get the picture...) is really just an interesting idea for a fountain. Of course, Belgians are very proud of this little man and consider it a national treasure, and rightfully so, as it has been a part of Brussels for centuries. (A quick side note... never to be outdone in the fight for equal rights for women, I recently learned that the "little man" now has a "little woman" counterpart: Jeanneke Pis. Personally, I don't find Jeanneke nearly as charming as Manneken... somewhat disturbing actually. Google it.)




The Grand Place is probably the most well kept secret in Europe. Yes, that is a rather bold statement to make, but it is the most fantastic town square I've ever laid eyes upon. There is apparently a large debate within Belgium about what town square is the most beautiful, but in my opinion, the Grand Place is head and shoulders above anything else in Belgium. The most striking building is the Brussels Town Hall. It is the tallest peak in the center of the city and has some of the most detailed sculpting work I've ever seen. It is truly the type of building that you cannot take your eyes away from. At night, it is even more spectacular. Surprisingly, in 1695, a French army destroyed almost the entire city square, except the town hall building and tower. The rest of the Grand Place was rebuilt by the guild houses, which now surround the square. Each guild was similar to a workers union, and built a building in the town square to sell their goods. Thus, Brussels had a seafarer's guild, a bakers' guild, and of course, a beer makers' guild. While the Brussels town Hall definitely takes the cake for the most incredible building in the square, the guild houses are equally remarkable when you look at all of the intricate detail that went in to each of these houses. Besides enjoying the Grand Place on a clear evening, we also were able to check out a Jazz Festival in the middle of the square one weekend. Again, with the history behind the Grand Place, the whole event had a really great atmosphere. Before I die, I will visit Brussels again when they have the flower carpet in the middle of the square. I've seen pictures, but they don't do the event justice. I've heard that just makes the place even more incredible.

Well, folks, it was an absolutely incredible trip. I'm glad to be back home in the States, and I do think the trip made me love America even more. However, I discovered a whole new world in Europe and cannot wait to get back over there and see it again. Cheers, Bonsoir, and Goodnight!

1 comment:

Garrett said...

Great post man. I particularly enjoyed the comedic/historic blend. Hope the nation's capital is as exciting as your previous adventure.